I
love researching and writing historicals and often have said I’d like to time
travel into one of the settings of my stories, but, wearing a corset everyday
would be about as convenient as the outhouse, so I’m glad I live in the
twenty-first century.
The corset was only one layer a woman had to deal with… After
a rather
tight corset,
which was
claimed to ‘provide even the stoutest of women a healthy option to control the shape of her body’, a woman added at least
two petticoats, drawers, a chemise, crinoline, and bustle with cover, a corset
cover, the ever fashionable hoop skirt, which was made with thick, heavy wire
so it wouldn’t lose its shape, and then over all of this came the dress, (these
were often made of heavy cottons, brocades, and wools). A women’s ensemble of
1800’s easily weighed over twenty-five pounds—without shoes, overcoat/cape,
hat, gloves, etc. etc.
In
the 1860’s the popular, huge hoop skirts limited movement and sitting to the
point at some social events, woman stood for the entire evening. No
wonder the ‘vapors’ set in.
With
the popularity of the home sewing machine, patented in the U.S. in 1848, and
then the invention of paper patterns in the 1860’s, came infinite changes in
apparel, both for men and women. The ability to mass produce clothing provided
accessibility to a much larger array. Synthetic dyes were also becoming more
popular, which provided bold, vibrant colors. The Civil War and the western
land runs also changed fashion. During this time the simpler clothing worn by
the ‘working’ class became more popular, especially in the south and west.
Laboring in the plantation fields and/or walking for up to forty miles a day
beside a covered wagon, women quickly discarded layers and the more
constricting garments. Until then most of
the fashions came from overseas, and filtered through the U.S. by way of New
York, but the gold rush in California quickly increased the population of the
western U.S. shore and the women there, being outnumbered by men two to one,
had the power to instill new fashion trends.
We
often think of split skirts for horseback riding, but it wasn’t until the
bicycle increased in popularity that split skirts and bloomers became popular.
The trend started in San Francisco
where women started to ‘shorten’ their skirts to ride bike. This is also where
the ‘General Association for the Simplification of Women's Clothing’ was
founded in 1896. I’m assuming it’s this association we have to thank for the
much simpler bras and underwear of today.
All in all, I truly can’t imagine how bulky twenty-five
pounds of clothing would be to wear, especially in the summer heat!
